Photo via Pixabay: Clem Onojeghuo
By Elspeth Chapman
When Dolce & Gabbana (D&G) revealed its Autumn/Winter 2026–2027 menswear collection at Milan Fashion Week, the show was framed as a tribute to identity and masculinity. But almost immediately it faced backlash for its non-inclusive casting, with some calling it “racist”.
Titled ‘The Portrait of Man’, the runway presented a series of sharply tailored looks that are clearly based on the sleek eveningwear and Italian machismo that D&G are built on. But the conversation wasn’t on the runway for long, it quickly shifted towards the models.
Many fashion lovers were quick to point out that the runway appeared to feature exclusively white models, sparking widespread backlash online and reigniting debated about diversity in fashion once again.
Salesman and avid GQ reader Jordan Martin, 29, said: “Watching the show felt like stepping back in time… how in a world full of talent and culture did they still choose a runway that shows only one type of face?”
The debate picked up speed across social media after fashion influencer Elias Medini (@ly.as on Instagram) posted a video highlighting the casting. Displaying headshots of the models, he described the lineup as “fifty shades of white,” pointing out the absence of Asian, Black, or Middle Eastern models in the show.
Supermodel Bella Hadid was among those who weighed in, writing in the comments that it was “embarrassing” that audiences still supported the brand despite “years of racism, sexism, bigotry (and) xenophobia”.
Photo via Instagram (@bellahadid)
D&G didn’t help themselves, PR materials for the show described the collection as celebrating the “singular identity of every man”. Of course, industry experts had comments about how shallow this message was, given the unanimous casting. It all felt very tone deaf: in a multicultural city like Milan, the absence of visible diversity was particularity noticeable.
The runway also revived long-standing questions around D&G, race and representation. The brand has previously faced accusations of cultural insensitivity, most notably in 2018. There was controversy around their advertising ahead of a Shanghai fashion show, it was criticised as racist and led to the event being cancelled.
D&G’s choice of casting has brought home the social responsibility and political responsibility that brands have when showcasing work. While some designers have increasingly engaged with contemporary issues through their collections, others appear more hesitant to frame fashion in political terms.
During the same Milan Fashion Week, Prada designers Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons described their collection as reflecting the uncertainty of the current moment rather than delivering a direct political statement.
But for many fashion lovers, representation on the runway is not simply aesthetic it is structural. “It’s important to look at the runway and feel represented… especially for kids, it’s important for them to see themselves in someone,” said Martin.
Casting choices determine who and what type of people are visible within the sphere that luxury fashion exists. When that sphere appears to be led by rich white men, it sends a message about who belongs within the industry’s imagination.
Despite the backlash, the brand continues to maintain a powerful place in luxury fashion, supported by celebrity collaborations and private investors. In a market increasingly shaped by younger and often international consumers, representation has become more just a box ticking exercise, it is now a measure of credibility.
In an industry built on spectacle and inspiration, who appears on the runway can be as meaningful as the clothes themselves.
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