By Niamh Hatfield
In the fashion industry, diversity is often represented to appease the public, not to create real change. High-profile moments may attract attention and praise, but they frequently serve more to make brands appear inclusive than to create genuine progress.
Take Vogue’s January 2017 cover featuring Ashley Graham, which was celebrated as the first plus-size model on the magazine. However, it raised the question whether it was a true step towards inclusivity, or just a means to protect their public image.
Photo via @ashleygraham on Instagram
Looking beyond these glorified moments, the data tells a different story. The Vogue Business Spring/Summer 2026 Size Inclusivity Report shows that the overwhelming majority of runway models remain straight-size. Across 198 shows and 9,038 looks, 97.1% of models were straight-size (UK 4-8), 2% were mid-size (UK 10-16), and just 0.9% were plus-size (UK18).
Laura Mitchell, aged 21, highlighted the lack of the diversity in models when online shopping. “When I shop for new clothes, especially online, I don’t feel like my body type is represented,” she said. “I find it hard buying clothes online because I can’t imagine what I’d look like in them.”
While diversity is celebrated in marketing and social media, fashion industry standards continue to use body types that represent a small amount of the population, raising questions about whether these moments of diversity are genuine change or simply a performative exercise.
Behind the scenes, many models report that the pressure to maintain this standard has simply become less visible rather than disappearing altogether. Norwegian model Karoline Bjornelykke spoke on a BBC podcast and described working out twice a day and reporting her weight to her agency at just 18 to meet strict expectations. After trying to maintain these unrealistic standards, Karoline decided to transition into a curve model, and noted that she received more work when she modelled at a ‘straight’ size.
Showcasing diversity may earn public applause and protect a brand’s reputation, but without systemic change, these efforts remain superficial. Inclusivity requires more than a token model, it is more important than ever that the industry reflects the majority of body types so that more people feel truly represented.
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