By Aaron Patel, Ryan Evans, Cheryne Fourdrigniez
Tribute or theft? London Metropolitan University hosted a debate , discussing the nature of cultural appropriation and how fine the line is. A panel of four experienced fashionistas answered questions from students, and shared their thoughts on this controversial topic
Panelists:
- Marion Hume, renowned ethical journalist
- Toni Tran, trend-setting fashion blogger
- Teleica Kirkland from the Costume Institute of the African Diaspora
- Elizabeth-Yemi Akingbade, exciting new fashion designer
15.52: Models prepare for the catwalk
16.45: Toni Tran arrives
17.01: Elizabeth arrives
17.06: Other panelists arrive and everyone sits down
17.10: London Metropolitan University BA Journalism Course Leader Victoria Neumark Jones opens up the conference
17.11: Journalism Senior Lecturer Gill Wood opens the debate: Tribute or theft
17:11: Question and answer session commences
17:11: Student Natasha Drakais asks Marion: “What is the difference between cultural appropriation and cultural appreciation? Where do you draw the line?”
17:12: “My quick answer is an honest answer, I have no idea where you draw the line. Because I think that line is very fluid.” – Marion
17:19: Student Stella Graham asks Elizabeth: “How did growing up in a British working class society affect your perception of cultural appropriation?”
17:19: “I moved from London to Bournemouth, and that’s all I knew for 18 years. I didn’t embrace my culture until I was 18 when I moved to London. Since then my work has involved my British and Nigerian culture.” – Elizabeth
17:20: Student Ryan Evans asks Elizabeth: “Is there a conflict between fast fashion and cultural appropriation?”
17:21: “I think that when there are so many collections coming, I do one a year, designers are rushed. Designers don’t really get a chance to research, so I think that is part of the problem.”
17:22: Student Charlotte Hart asks Tony: “Why does it have to be this deep – why can’t people dress how they want?”
17:22: “For me this medium of exploring a diversity of fashion, we were only influenced when we were teenagers. For me it’s been the eastern element in the western culture. Where do you play in terms of not understanding fashion but expressing it?” you are allowed to explore but there is a fine line between understanding and educating” – Toni
17:26: “This is so deep because as humans especially as people within the west, the western cultures have not looked upon anyone else with favour.” – Teleica
17:28: Student Cheryne Fourdrigniez asks the whole panel: “Should we set guidelines on what cultural appropriation is? Should the moral police interfere with the way we dress?”
17:28: “I think there is a moral police, now in the age of Instagram calling out all the time, is it always a good thing? I think there are moments when fashion is about joy, and that you should be able to go out the house without fear of offense.” – Marion.
17:33: Student Lamin Jaiteh asks Teleica: “Have you ever contacted a film producer or a film-maker and said ‘Hey, this is cultural appropriation’?
17:34: “I had film producers approach my organization and ask for consultation and advice. I’ve had a film professor ask me to watch a film that she was using for her students, and critique a dress in the film.” – Teleica
17:40 : Student Rhanie Al-Alas asks the panel: “Have people like the Kardashians had an influence on blackfishing?” [The term is used to describe white people, mainly women, who pretend to be black by using make-up etc designed to change their appearance.]
17:41: Teleica said yes
17:55: Student Amy Essex asks Teleica: “You had an exhibition in 2014 using madras and tartan. Why did you feel it was important to educate people about the link?”
17:57: “I wanted people to understand the cross cultural exchanges that had happened with colonisation.” – Teleica
18:01: “One of my biggest issues is that no one is educated. I felt really compelled to do something about it” – Teleica
18:06: Student John Chisengalumbwe asks: “Does cultural appropriation divide rather than diversify?”
18:07: “I think it’s ends up dividing people because you’re saying it belongs to me” – Elizabeth
18:08: “It’s neither, we can learn so much from each other. It’s a positive thing.” – Marion
18:09: “We should also educated, people take it to another extent. People can take it the wrong way” -Toni
18:09: “It starts a conversation. It can be seen as a positive thing but it can be seen as a negative thing. We have to have the hard conversations.” – Teleica
18:10: Panel concludes
18:22: Catwalk begins showcasing work from The Cass BA Fashion students, modelled by Journalism students.
18:31: Event concludes, with tea, coffee and biscuits.
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