That is, a quick overview of the latest designer collections. Warning! There is a common side effect: feeling surreal.
by Weronika Maleszewska
Consciously created duality
Wow, fashion said: the sky is the limit. Presented collections are full of a consciously created duality that leads to this trippy allusion of the ‘inside-outness’. Tidal waves of era-defining trends and style movements are slowly taking us over. And let’s all admit it, we are extremely weak for them.
It becomes more and more visible that designers, who are at the end of the day also human, are beginning to feel nostalgic. Their ‘overcoming lockdown’ strategy includes the anticipation of post-pandemic times, which is giving the reins to fantasy.
This inspirational exploration leads to the deconstruction of a familiar silhouettes in ways that create an artful void – adaptable into different forms. In a large number of cases, it has resulted into the oblivion of the artistic world, showing an impeccable sense of time, because when, if not now, would we need additional emotional stimuli?
Jonny Johansson, creative director of Acne Studios, said: “The global situation this past year has allowed us to look inward, renewing our commitment to an experimental studio practice.
“Experimentation is what I love in design. It’s like the artist’s studio or the brand’s rehearsal room,” he said in an interview with Vogue Runway.
Need of an emotional boost
This parallel seems to be taken up by many.
Bianca Saunders, with her menswear AW21 collection, causes us to feel surreal, not only because of the extremely intense (in the best way possible) use of the trompe-l’œil effect, or because of the direct associations with surrealistic artists such as Erwin Wurm, but because of her empathy towards us, and the understanding of our tempting need of an emotional boost.
Her irregular trousers, almost ‘flying away’ coats, body-trickly knits…breathtaking. Bianca herself admits: “I think this is the most creative I have been in a very long time.”
Avant Garde situates itself as the trunk of this tree of artful attempts in the fashion world, but what seems worth mentioning is this enormous growth of its branches. Now, the boundaries go as far as…, well wait…let’s stop kidding ourselves, there are no boundaries.
Designers seem to be in the middle of a decision-making process. Collections are full of duality and lookbooks are full of jackets and trouser suits made in stretchy and comfortable fabrics. The patterns are wide and the shapes are versatile, almost encouraging us to behave in a casual way.
“Far from looking normal”
George Sneers, a London-based fashion design student, said: “I feel being welcomed to interpret the collections in my own, unique way. Taking the idea of enormously large and “far from looking normal” scarves as the example. These maxi scarves can obviously protect me from the cold outside, but what I see as the side effect of its purpose, is the blanket role of it, keeping me warm on the sofa at home.”
Naturally, there are designers who are, and have always been, a little bit more extra, and the current, homely situation is simply not enough for them. “Just don’t’ mention the C word!!! I am sick of comfort-wear… Everyone I have spoken to is so tired of what we are wearing now: simple, comfortable…” said Michael Halpern, creative director of the Halpernstudio, during one of his after-show interviews.
Well, following the Jeremy Scott’s Moschino attempt’s devotion to dress-up formality, this seems like an antidote to fashion’s current fixation with comfort and homebound loungewear. Fashion fantasises and romanticises about the future, putting out into the deep waters of creativity, causing us feeling artistically-fulfilled.
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