By Gabriela Yorgova
“Sustainable doesn’t actually mean better quality. Sustainable means something which is circular, which goes back to the whole ecosystem… In the long run, it is better.”
Watching the textile mills and tracing the cotton to the fields from a young age, Omar Mansoor has been influenced by his family of textile makers back in Pakistan, as well as his love of culture, history and art.
Mansoor is a designer whose taste and passion for fashion, textiles, cuts, and silhouettes are rooted in his family. His eponymous collection was launched in 2008, and since then, he has been creating luxurious pieces for women all around the world including actresses, international royalty and aristocracy. His designs have been worn at events including the Oscars and the Cannes Film Festival.
His definition of fast fashion
Mansoor was part of the panel at London Metropolitan University’s Fashion Newsweek: ‘Dirty fashion: can what we wear ever be clean and green’, and he contributed to the discussion about fast fashion and sustainability.
He believes that the definition of fast fashion is broad, and the issue is not only rooted in the production cycle but also in the customer’s side and their choices.
“To keep their prices low, their [fast fashion companies] practices are not only unsustainable but also unethical. Maybe you’re using 100% sustainable sources, but if you’re using slave labour, underpaid labour, then you can’t get away with this…”
Buying a cheap outfit to be worn for one occasion only, and then throwing it away, is not only unsustainable but also unethical, according to the designer.
“I think fast fashion is a nuisance. They are a problem for sustainability. They’re trying to greenwash their unethical practices, by calling themselves half-sustainable.”
Overconsumption and pressure from the media
Media outlets and influencers are known to be affecting others’ purchasing habits. Outfit and design inspiration for both designers and the public come from magazines, fashion figures, and the press.
“It is the magazines and the media which are promoting overconsumption. For every new edition… they are the ones who are promoting something certainly new,” Mansoor said.
He added that magazines are trying to “sell the idea of an unsatisfied lifestyle”, rather than inspiring their audience to re-wear what they already have in their wardrobes. He suggested that influencers and the press should prioritise sustainability to advertising new products brands offer them.
Magazines are trying to “sell the idea of an unsatisfied lifestyle”
Omar Mansoor
Are sustainable brands lacking size inclusivity?
According to the designer, made-to-wear has many benefits, one of which is the sizing and fit of a piece. Even though fast fashion might be considered more inclusive, this is not completely certain. Such brands create a broad spectrum of sizes based on the market they are selling to.
Mansoor explained how marketing and sales influence brands to sell mainly in certain sizes in various regions. “Knowing what would be sold and consumed is actually the right approach. It’s about who will wear it and who will buy it.”
He added that sizing is a marketing choice, which can also reduce the waste of materials. However, made-to-sell orders, sustainable materials and ethical practices of fashion companies are always better for the environment.
All photos by Wendy Sloane
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