By Martina Manias
Modelling agencies used to be an essential tool for getting the right models to represent a brand. They also were what the models themselves feared the most, as an agency could make or break their career.
But with the emergence of social media, something within the industry has changed.
Many content creators have changed their approach to the fashion industry, bringing in a wealth of content such as collaborations, editorials, and brand campaigns.
But the biggest change is no doubt how models are selected. No longer do they simply sign on with a modelling agency and then get picked by a brand. Instead, several brands these days bypass the agencies, and choose models based on their Instagram and Tik Tok.
Social media “critical”
Six years ago, Chiara Busetti started as a freelance model. On a given day her stylish outfit – a shocking pink blouse and cargo pants – confirms that she works in the fashion industry.
Busetti used to post content daily on her Instagram page and in 2020, she started to work for Pop Models.
“The requirements in the model industry over the years, changed a lot. In the ’80s, being a model was about beauty; in the ’90s and 2000s this changed, and models were supposed to be skinnier and skinnier,” says the 26-year-old.
Chiara speaks of this with a sad expression on her face, but at the same time she is optimistic about social media’s role in the fashion industry.
“Social media now is critical. There are models that don’t fit the requirements but they became famous for other things – promoted by social media; for example,” she said.
“Emily Ratajkowski is a model, and she became a model thanks to the audiences watching her music video, and now she is working in the high fashion.”
An alternative route
Social media is an alternative way to be a real model; recently, it seemed impossible to meet the requirements of the industry. Now it’s much easier, thanks to social platforms.
“I think there is a misunderstanding because, in my sight, model agencies and social media have different roles in the fashion industry and are both essential,” said John Horner, director of Models 1, which calls itself “Europe’s leading model agency” and is a founding member of the British Fashion Model Agents Association (BFMA).
“But model agencies aim to develop the career and experience of a professional model, so is difficult that model agencies can be replaced by a social media because we offer different services and experiences.”
He added that social media has had a profound impact on the industry
“Beauty has changed because of social media; there is more inclusivity, we have several sectors for a model, like petite, curvy but the main requirement a model needs to have is personality.”
Busetti said that modelling agencies can’t be replaced because are still essential for the fashion industry.
“It’s much easier for the models being in a model agency since you have much more opportunities to grow as a professional model, because usually model agencies have more contacts and credibility than social media,” she said.
The power of social media is changing the fashion industry in the way of inclusivity and sizing, but they will not replace the hard work of modelling agencies.
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