Small independent brands strut their stuff during London Fashion Week

The fashion show spotlight is not only on London Fashion Week 

By Aliyah Difia Rahma

A show to display the collection of independent designers and celebrates diversity. Credit: Aliyah Difia Rahma

The London Fashion Week invitation might be a hard one to get for anybody, but that doesn’t mean we can’t watch other designers presenting their work to the crowd. 

Fashion Show Live ,created by CreativeTH, is a fashion show event that gives stage to emerging and independent designers, to showcase their talent and their uniqueness to a whole new audience. 

This year, the show is held in Dutch Church near Liverpool Street, where the entire first floor of the building was transformed into a runway scene. The interior of the church already makes up the decoration for the show, which makes an interesting juxtaposition of traditional and modern designs by the brands. 

There’s a total of two shows for Fashion Show Live, showcasing 20 independent fashion brands. Credit: Aliyah Difia Rahma

The show itself has a different format than your normal fashion show, where brands would show 30-plus designs in one sitting. This one is a collective show, where multiple brands get to present their collection in one show together. 

A total of 10 designers are showing their collections in this fashion show, and it’s a variety of UK and international-based brands. It’s also a blend of new and established brands, making it a more diverse showcase of designers. There is another show held a little later in the evening, with a different set of designers as well.

It starts with Caroline Bruce and her colourful dresses, which sets the mood for the rest of the show. Her collection was bright and feminine but still soft and a tad bit sensual. 

The next brand is 54folks by the new and emerging designer Ayomide Adeyemo, which draws inspiration from African tribes and histories. 

54folks explores different African tribe every collection. Credit: Aliyah Difia Rahma

Ayomide designed blazers with intricate patterns, drawing inspiration from 18th-century Nigeria when the British invaded the country. She said that Nigerians adopted how the British dressed and explained how Nigerians now make it their style. The collection also features a one-piece and double-breasted long coat for that British silhouette, with an African pattern twist.

“We just want history to be told, we don’t want our history to be forgotten,” Ayomide said.

The brand is actively pushing themselves to get the necessary funding they need to research and travel to Africa. Credit: Aliyah Difia Rahma

This is her first collection right after she graduated from university last year, and she’s working hard to push her brand into the conversation.

“We’re hoping to get the industry visibility that we need so that we can tell the story better,” she continued. 

All the models from 54folks wore some form of headpiece to complete the look shown. Credit: Aliyah Difia Rahma

Studio Karro presented an all-black ensemble, using sheer fabrics, leathers and corset-style tops to embody a sensual look. The collection also gives a subtle deconstructed looks, especially on the jackets and the corset-style tops. 

One of the all-black look fit with leather draping technique that Studio Karro is known for. Credit: Aliyah Difia Rahma

One of the designs from the Studio Karro that features a light deconstructed look. Credit: Aliyah Difia Rahma

The designer of the brand recorded her progress in making this collection on Instagram, where she shares her journey on making this collection. 

Brian Clarke presented a collection inspired by corsets, the collection’s main colours are blue and white which gives a more calm and demure collection. Clarke said that he wanted something more masculine for this collection and something that’s less restricted.

One of the few designs made by Brian Clarke for the show. Credit: Aliyah Difia Rahma 

“I wanted something that is more playful and relaxed,” he said backstage after the show.

The highlight of his collection is the jackets, double-breasted jackets with strings on the sleeves and the pants, the fits are mostly relaxed like he said but still contain that authority in their designs. Brian also collaborated with a French artisan fabric maker that specialises in tablecloths for this collection.

The brand focuses on sophisticated menswear, merging theatricality with tradition. Credit: Aliyah Difia Rahma

When talking about what he wants to achieve by doing this show Clarke said, “My brand has been running for nearly 10 years and I find every time someone sees the work they say, how come we didn’t hear of you before.” 

He also mentioned that he wants to focus on his brand and that he is “trying to speed up the process”.

The closing look of Brian Clarke collection at Fashion Show Live. Credit: Aliyah Difia Rahma

“The growth is not about what’s happening outside, but it’s doing your own growth,” Clarke said.

“I’m happy with my work, I’m doing regardless even if it’s not received well, I’ve got to continue along my path, can’t follow someone else’s you know,” he added. 

Other designers that are part of this show include SF by Sarah Fuad, which serves a collection of dreamy dresses that make you feel like a princess; Mademoiselle Prune with their sustainable jacket collections, O Niki Bikinis with their string bikinis collection, Style by Mo and their glorious dresses and Noor by Nafeesa with their satin patterned dresses. 

Closing this show is Liam Brandon Murray which focuses on sculptures as art and infused them in fashion. The lapels of their blazers are adorned with sculptures and wearable sculptures of hands and feathers close the show. 

Liam Brandon Murray infuses fashion with fine art. Credit: Aliyah Difia Rahma

Another unique thing from the last design is the ash of the model’s mother is infused into wearable sculptures. According to Murray, the model’s mother always wanted to walk in a fashion show but passed away before she could.

Liam Brandon Murray is blurring the line between art, entertainment and fashion by creating his designs. Photo credit: Aliyah Difia Rahma. 

In regards to this Murray said: “What I’m trying to say is, your wish could be granted even if you passed away,” before closing his show. 

Fashion Show Live gave a good selection of designers all with varying aesthetics and designs, which made the experience more satisfying and rounded. It’s a chance to be exposed to new brands and new people while also pushing new and emerging designer industry and public visibility.